Curious what was the model of your drive failure? I have 6 years now on a bunch of 8TB WD Elements/EasyStore drives as well as some 10TB-14TB WD MyBook, Elements, and refurbished WD drives from serverpartdeals in the preceding years. Still no failures yet but I’m expecting one eventually.
I’m currently running mine on Windows and use SnapRAID and DrivePool as my defense against drive failures. I think I have 7 data drives and 2 parity at this point (totalling around 90TB). Beyond that I copy the Snapraid whatchamacallit to a separate backup drive along with my OS drive. This isn’t really a ‘backup’ but in the scenario where I have several failures and no way to restore, I still have radarr/sonarr keeping track of my library and a membership to several private trackers.
I wouldn’t worry too much about losing media files as most can just be downloaded again. I find it more beneficial to make use of all the storage space you can rather than trying to do a 1:1 backup, which gets pretty absurd once you start getting up there in movie/TV count.
I placed my fan over the heatsink and did an X pattern in zipties to hold it all in place
Agreed. They’re trying to kill off Plex Shares, where people are essentially using their software to run their own for-profit streaming service using pirated content. This shit affects all of us as it brings on lawsuits and new laws to combat just so some random dude can make some extra cash selling access.
Will anything even be able to use PiHole with the power out?
I’d multiply by 10-12 hours to account for losses in the DC-AC conversion.
OP just needs a really long extension cord plugged into a German outlet.
Does this setup have you running two separate routers? AFAIK this is an issue since they can assign conflicting IPs. Typically when using your own router combined with an ISP modem/router combo, you’re supposed to set the ISP device into pass-through mode so that it isn’t doing anything but forwarding the traffic to your personal router.
Yes but you can find old hardware for sale too. Another alternative are the micro form factor Dell Optiplex PCs.
I got my Ecobee from our utility company for like $25 and it comes with a remote temp sensor/mmwave radar sensor which is great for home assistant presence detection.
Same except I don’t bother blocking it from the internet in case I want to use their app instead of home assistant. Haven’t noticed any issues doing it this way. AFAIK there are no fees or anything associated with it and I can’t imagine my thermostat temperature data is making them any money.
Don’t commit to a specific hub. You can setup HomeAssistant and use it to control most of these devices with a simple $20 zigbee or zwave USB donlge.
Down in Oregon, I get either 100mbps through CenturyLink for $65 or 1.2gbps down/30mbps up from Comcast for $130 (with the $30 extra to remove the data cap). I would kill for a symmettical connection even if it were only 500/500.
The Fractal Design R6 and R7 should work too. I have the R6 with 9 or 10 drives in it now. The Node may be an option too though I don’t recall what mobo form factor it accepts.
R7 gang here. Let us keep the dream alive!