A Reddit Refugee. Zero ragrets.

Engineer, permanent pirate, lover of all things mechanical and on wheels

moved here from lemmy.one because there are no active admins on that instance.

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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: December 22nd, 2023

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  • A. Run a batch transcode with Handbrake and make all your stored files compatible with your end players.
    It sounds like the more recent things you are downloading are in a codec that is not compatible with your playback devices. E.g, older torrents are frequently an H.264 stream in an MP4 container, which practically every device can play now. Many modern releases are being distributed in H.265 or AV1, as they have significant size and quality benefits, but many older devices don’t support them natively. so it is forcing Jellyfin to live transcode to h.264. Find out what older titles play without any buffer or playback lag/high CPU usage and check what codec those files are in. That is what you’ll need to batch encode everything over to.

    B. Sounds like you are still relying on CPU transcoding which is absolute dog. What mini pc specs do you have? If it’s an AMD or Intel CPU/APU then it should have hardware encode/decode included in it’s integrated GPU. When using hardware transcoding the CPU load is generally minimal for 1 to 2 streams. See the Jellyfin docs on hardware acceleration here.


  • My default goto with any stability issue is to first force a new drive self test

    smartctl -l selftest /dev/nvme0  
    
    

    And then I would also run a complete extended memory test (memtest86) to ensure bad ram isn’t doing something dumb like corrupting the part of the kernel that handles disk IO. The number of times I’ve had unsolvable issues that traced to an unstable stick of memory is… Surprisingly high.

    If the memtest passes try fsck’ing nvme0, if there are corrupted blocks yeah it’s possible the SSD is dying but the controller isn’t reporting it.




  • Adapter or caddy is fine. Can get them on most shopping sites for cheap.

    IIRC from my old office PC slinging days, a lot of those cases with 5-1/4 bays usually had slots for mounting screws that would allow you to mount a 3.5 drive flush to one sideusijg 2 screws. Then you get a 1-3/4" 6-32 screw stand off, thread it into the drive, and use that to mount it to the other side of the 5-1/4 bay.

    Did that a lot to really old reused cases where there were a ton of 5-1/4 bays but only one 3.5 bay.


  • Bigger hammer and a concrete surface. Three good whacks to the thin sheet metal casing (opposite the drive motor/PCB) should shatter the platters inside.
    You can also buy a sharp punch that looks like this and punch thru the sheetmetal side to really get those platters broke.

    Realistically if they’re already failed, nobody is going through the effort to send these disks through any kind of speciality recovery for a random john q public anyway.


  • Any normal computer can become a “server”, its all based on the software.
    Most enterprise server hardware is expensive because its designed around demanding workloads where uptime and redundancy is important. For a goober wanting to start a Minecraft and Jellyfin server, any old PC will work.
    For home labbers office PC’s is the best way to do it. I have two machines right now that are repurposed office machines. They usually work well as office machines generally focus on having a decent CPU and plenty of memory without wasting money on a high end GPU, and can be had used for very cheap (or even free if you make friends that work in IT). And unless you’re running a lot of game servers or want a 4k streaming box, even a mediocre PC from 2012 is powerful enough to do a lot of stuff on.






  • Don’t use a thumb drive, use an external hard/solid state drive or install an internal drive. Even an aliexpress 64gb ssd for $10 is better than any thumbdrive. Thumbdrive’s flash and controllers are not designed for OS level continuous writes and will die very quickly.

    If you must use a thumb drive, add some kind of air flow over it, and disable all logging features in openWRT to reduce writes as much as possible.


  • The absolute best bang for your buck new GPU’s for decode/encode are Intel ARC GPU’s. They use Intel’s Quick Sync Video system which is some of the best supported encode/decode libraries out there, and they’re cheap.

    An ARC A380 is easily had for $110, runs entirely off 75w PCIe slot power requiring no additional PSU wires, and supports H264/H265/AV1 encode. It’s a no brainer.

    As long as it physically fits the slot, it should not have an issue with the lower PCIe bandwidth. The lower end GPU’s really need very little even for video encode.





  • The devices usually get some descriptor of what they look like…

    For example I have:

    • Flatboard - an old core2duo era Xeon bare tower server board I got on Craigslist for $20 that lives on a custom backplate and no case (thus, is flat)
    • OrangeBox - an Orange Pi 5 in a aptly-colored orange case I custom modeled and 3d printed for it
    • DumbBrick - my retired gaming PC built from a t30 dell tower server that is basically a nondescript black brick